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Post by Admin on Nov 19, 2013 9:57:15 GMT
I remember that Wick used a special sealing system instead of aluminium primer on the Spirit O Wick, cannot mind what it was but would be good to hear from Graham or Sandy on what they used and whether you then finish with conventional marine paints !  Superb finish on the Spirit O Wick |
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Post by wickskiffy on Nov 20, 2013 13:04:42 GMT
Hi Alan, We sealed the hull with SP Eposeal 300 which is an epoxy sealant. We then used Hemple two pack marine primer followed by a single pack marine top coat x 2 The Eposeal is made by Gurit (I think) we still have some in the workshop. This stuff is not cheap though.
Graham, is in Poland at the moment but I'll send you his number if you want to give him a ring at the weekend for more detail as he did a fair bit of research before we chose this.
Sandy.
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AP
New Member
I should never have listened to Mark Irvine
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Post by AP on Nov 20, 2013 19:18:44 GMT
Thanks Sandy. Just wanted to put it up on the forum for all these new builds in progress. It sounds like a good system with far more penetrative power than standard primers and according to the spec sheet can be over painted with any type of paint system. Here is the sheet for those interested www.gurit.com/files/documents/Eposeal_300_v9.pdf . As most skiffs are not sitting on water all the time and some even kept indoors the primer coat may not be as vital as in some other boats, but there are some wee nooks and crannies that could be prone to rot if wet for long periods especially inside the hull where rainwater can sit and no harm in having the best money can buy. |
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Post by wkskiffer on Nov 20, 2013 21:20:50 GMT
Hi folks,
We decided that Eposeal 300 was our product of choice based on lengthy discussions with one of the boffins at the manufacturers (who’s name escapes me at the moment) and a recommendation made by one of our own guys who happened to stumble across this product a number of years ago.
The sealant it’s self is a water like substance and is designed to penetrate the surface of the timber it is applied to. In the case of plywood this penetration will in reality only be to the first glue line however this will be far greater when applied to end grain. Several coats are recommended to provide total encapsulation of the timber with further coats required to fill in the grain if used to provide a finished coat. As well as sealing the timber this process will also stabilise any timber which is adequately coated and reduce any movement in the timber caused by changes in temperature and varying moisture content.
We used this product on the entire boat to provide protection with a couple of extra coats applied to the hull below the water line (inside and out).
We then used a further clear epoxy topcoat on all areas where we wanted a timber finish. Off the top of my head I think this was SP 320 but I will have to confirm this once I get back home. This product was carefully selected to provide a high gloss finish as well as being as hard as hell!
The only issue with these epoxy products to be aware of are that they are susceptible to UV exposure and will degrade over time if left exposed to sunlight. To sort out this issue we applied several coats of a suitable two pack poly marine varnish which provides adequate UV protection (problem solved, we hope).
With regards to the paint, we decided to go for a two pack marine base/primer for a tough durable coating. We did consider a two pack finish coat but decided that a single pack top coat would be more suitable based on the fact that it would be easier to touch up and repair any of the bumps and scrapes that are bound to occur. To date I would say that the system has worked pretty well and we are confident that the boat is well protected and should keep her in good condition for many years to come but only time will tell if we have got it right.
I will warn you though that this coating system isn’t cheap. I think we spent in the region of £600 on all of the finishing’s and we didn’t have as much left over as we thought we would. Again I will be able to confirm these figures once I get back home for you.
So there you go. Maybe we are crazy and went well over the top on the finishing but we hope this will pay dividends in the years to come and cut down on the on going maintenance of the vessel.
I hope this is of help and if anyone would like any further info please feel free to give me a shout and I will assist in any way I can (I am no expert in this area by the way though).
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AP
New Member
I should never have listened to Mark Irvine
Posts: 39
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Post by AP on Nov 20, 2013 22:58:56 GMT
Thanks for the comprehensive reply wkskiffer. A lot of money true but what proportion of that was on primer. I reckon that with bumps and scrapes standard paint may come off quite easily but if the primer has good penetration you always have some protection. 5 ltrs of eposeal comes in at £115 as opposed to 2.5 ltr of aluminium primer at £50, not much difference per litre but you probably need twice as much eposeal because of its penetration, the primer being thicker tends to sit on the wood. In any case those using standard primer should thin out the first coat well to improve penetration. We used Deks oil www.owatrol.com/index.php?langue=en&page=produits-deks-olje-d1 on the timber finish parts and this is easy to apply, relatively cheap and easy to maintain, but does need regular treatment to keep up good looks. As for the Spirit O Wick, £600 well spent I reckon. |
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Post by wkskiffer on Nov 22, 2013 11:23:11 GMT
We ordered 3 x 5 litre packs of Eposeal 300 @ £113.95 each (total cast £341.85) and we use most of it.
I need to dig out all the orders but I think we were somewhere in the region of £300 - £400 for paint over and above that of which we have a little left but nothing to get excited about.
I know this sounds excessive but we felt that this was not something that we should be scrimping on as this will have a direct impact on the life of the boat and the level of maintenance required over the coming years.
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